CABO SAN LUCAS: The savage beauty of Baja

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Cabo San Lucas is a tender port. Judging from the pier, it is just another Mexican port, overcrowded with street vendors trying to sell you something, from silver bracelets to colourful plastic necklaces. In reality, Cabo San Lucas is a very unique port in many ways.

Turn around and you´ll face an Earthly Paradise, “Playa de los amantes” (Lovers´ beach). An impressive archway formed by the rocks, facing the bay, guards this deserted sandy beach.  It is only a 10 dollar ferry ride away and, as its name suggests, it is most recommended for lovers seeking  the most romantic surroundings.

Along the waterfront, there are various nice restaurants, offering delicious Mexican food, as well as the best Margaritas in the world. On my second time in Cabo, though, I had a local, in this case, bass legend Tito Rodríguez; take me to the best seafood restaurant in the area. Of course, this restaurant was not on the tourist-crowded waterfront.

Bass players know their seafood

“Mariscos Las Tres Islas” was located roughly a mile away from the port. The open air restaurant offered the most delicious fried shrimp I have ever tasted. One of their specials was fried shrimp with coconut; rather tasty but packed with calories. For a lighter option, I strongly recommend their mussels provencale. Their varieties of Mexican tequilas were worthy of a conoisseur, as well as their Margaritas, perfect for a hot Cabo afternoon.

If you decide to have lunch in the port area, you have a choice between several waterfront locales. While some tourists will inevitably end up in Hooters, for an American-style experience, I recommend Baja Cantina for some extra local flavor.

Baja Cantina, excellent location & coffee with tequila

Baja Cantina also has a beach restaurant, where the amazing Tito Rodríguez usually plays nights with his jazz band. The tables are right on the beautiful sandy beach. It was here that I had the pleasure of tasting a special Mexican coffee, complete with caramel, tequila, and flames. The Baja Cantina bartenders will prepare this in front of you, setting the coffee on fire before your eyes. Needless to say, it was delicious and perfect to top off a great seafood meal.

Cabo San Lucas is full of beautiful uncrowded beaches, where you can relax listening to nothing but the crashing of the waves. Playa Solmar is a perfect example of this. Nevertheless, wherever you choose to go swimming, you must bear in mind that the beaches on the Pacific Baja Península are known for their heavy surf and strong undertow.  The best way to enjoy the beauty of these Pacific shores is by using extreme caution.

Right on the waterfront, a 5 minute walk from the pier, there is a wonderful Dolphinarium. Here, you can swim with dolphins for a very affordable price. The dolphin trainers are amazing, and the whole experience is unforgettable. When I did it, I met the sweetest female dolphin, and the greatest Mexican dolphin trainer: Zabdi. Though I am not very keen on seeing animals in captivity, I was able to observe that dolphins were treated with the utmost respect, and were very happy to be there. Be aware that you won´t be allowed to bring your own cameras inside, and that photos taken by the Dolphinarium´s photographers will be a bit pricey.

The cape is famous mostly for its natural beauty. It has no special historical attactions and monuments like many other places in Mexico. Actually, the hostile nature of the area, guarded by a desert, has a history of discouraging even the most courageous pioneers from settling inland.

First discovered by the explorer Francisco de Ulloa in 1537,  Cabo San Lucas became a stop for ships coming from China over the next two centuries, which also made it a favorite hunting ground for pirates.

A long time has passed since Cabo was shaken, first by the pirate trade, then by the missionaries and the European diseases they brought, which ended up exterminating the native population. Today, Cabo San Lucas has become a pearl of the Pacific, abundant in everything you can ask for a perfect holiday; a breathtaking coastline, friendly locals, affordable prices, and an exciting night-life.

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